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Hi Bob, I am sharing the new complete guide about 1N4007 vs 1N4148: What are Differences and How to Choose. Thanks.

Hey guys, this is Erin, in today's blog we'll discuss the complete guide about the differences between 1N4007 vs 1N4148. The 1N4007 and 1N4148 are both diodes, but they have different characteristics and applications due to their distinct electrical properties. Here are the key differences between the two: Diode Type: 1N4007: This is a silicon rectifier diode, specifically a standard recovery rectifier diode. It is designed for high-voltage, high-current applications and is typically used for rectifying AC voltage to DC voltage in power supplies and other applications requiring high current handling. 1N4148: This is a silicon switching diode, also known as a fast switching diode or signal diode. It is designed for high-speed switching applications and is commonly used in low-power and high-frequency circuits. Forward Voltage Drop (VF): 1N4007: It has a relatively higher forward voltage drop, typically around 0.7 to 1.1 volts depending on the current passing through it. This higher voltage drop means it dissipates more power when conducting. 1N4148: It has a much lower forward voltage drop, typically around 0.6 to 0.7 volts. This lower voltage drop is advantageous in low-voltage applications as it reduces power dissipation and voltage loss across the diode. Reverse Recovery Time: 1N4007: This diode has a longer reverse recovery time, meaning it takes more time to switch off when the voltage polarity across it is reversed. This characteristic is acceptable for low-frequency power applications but not suitable for high-speed switching. 1N4148: It has a very short reverse recovery time, making it suitable for high-frequency applications and fast-switching circuits. It can switch on and off quickly in response to changes in voltage. Maximum Current Rating: 1N4007: It has a relatively higher maximum current rating, typically in the range of 1 to 2 amperes. This makes it suitable for higher current applications, such as power rectification. 1N4148: It has a lower maximum current rating, usually around 300 to 500 milliamperes. While it can handle moderate currents, it is not suitable for high-current applications. Reverse Voltage Rating: 1N4007: It has a higher reverse voltage rating, typically around 1000 volts or more. This makes it suitable for applications that require high reverse voltage blocking capability. 1N4148: It has a lower reverse voltage rating, typically around 75 to 100 volts. It is designed for lower-voltage applications and may not be suitable for high-voltage situations. Read more: 1N4007 vs 1N4148: What are Differences and How to Choose

Hey fellow electronic enthusiasts! I've recently developed a keen interest in electronics, and I'm eager to dive into this exciting world of circuits, components, and innovation. However, I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed with the sheer volume of information out there. I'm hoping some of you experienced folks can give me a little guidance on how to get started and share your own experiences. What were some of your first DIY electronic projects that helped you learn the ropes? I'd love to hear about some simple yet rewarding projects that I can tackle as a beginner. Are there any safety precautions I should be aware of when working with electronics? Are there any local clubs, forums, or Astro Luna events that you recommend for networking with fellow electronics enthusiasts? I'd love to connect with like-minded people and learn from their experiences.

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I got an STM8S103F3P6 development board, I'm attempting to execute a typical linking-led application, but I'm not sure what I'm doing incorrectly. A LED was connected to PIN D3; the following is my code: 1. include void delay_ ms (uint16. _t ms) ; void delay_ _ms(uint16 _t ms) { while (ms- -) { uint16_ t i; for (i = 0:i< ms; i++){ nop () ; } } } main() { GPI0D- >DDR |=0x03; //PD3 as Output GPI0D- >CR1 |=0x03: //PD3 as Push Pull while GPI0D- >0DR|=(1

In the electronic components industry, one prevalent issue that has been consistently troublesome is the prevalence of electronic component websites boasting inaccurate product inventories and prices. Consequently, when we urgently require components and initiate purchase inquiries, we frequently face increased time consumption in locating trustworthy suppliers. The vast array of component websites online makes it particularly challenging to swiftly discern their reliability, thereby causing significant inconvenience for our procurement team. I am curious if you have encountered a similar situation in your experience.

Id like to move the red wire for the kwh meter shown from before to after the coil. Your thoughts?

Hi all,i need a kwh meter to record power used on a 26a 240vac kiln. It does cycle off and on & has different heat settings. so i cant just use 26a x hrs I see so many electronic meters for sale and none really have a lot of reviews. Priced from 10 to 25$ and more. Are they any good? Which ones? So I decided to just buy one of those used mechanical house mtrs and box,but that will cost me 75 to 100$. Which is probably overkill. Any thoughts? I prefer one i can reset to zero every month, but might settle for one that i cant . I don't need one w\ an app. It will just hang on the wall and record kwh used. Simple p

Hi Jamesik, it is great to find a cheaper circuit board,just warmly remind,we can not just judge a circuit board only for money value,different construction and different material,different surface treatment leads to different price,respondingly,if you emphasis on the quality,the price maybe rather higher,so we should've comprehended the whole elements to evaluate the price,hope it could help you,tks. BR Jalina

There are quite lots of artists for art drawing,but quite a few make it apply for the PCB field,Is there anyone who can interpret how can make it?very welcome to leave comment,tks. BR Jalina

So I need to make my own planar isolation transformers, so I can print them out quickly whole sheets of them, but I dont want the henry's are like on a planar transformer, and i'm not sure how to go do it. Anyone know much about them?

Thanks, but I wish I didnt have to download the pdf's I wish I could just view them at the site right there.

If anyone is looking to build a guitar pedal, a thereimin or vintage amp from scratch and needs schematic diagrams for any pro audio gear like what musicians use, such as guitar amps, power amplifiers, vintage tube amps, effects pedals and such, check out schematics.ca . I'm a road musician and an electronics tech and have built some interesting sounding gizmos over the years. Also I got schematics for just about every piece of gear in my band from this site and they are free to download. It's always good to be prepared in case you fry something while you're on tour, which I have done. schematics-free.com has a lot of free audio schematics as well. Hope this helps!

Ive got this idea, to conduct through a dielectric by literally sparking through it, the problem is u only get one spark, but if i could get a lot of sparks (like a plane of them) and spark them all through at once, then i can have conduction through a dielectric! (like oil for example.) So anyone got any ideas for a multi-spark system, no stupid suggestions, and no stupid people.

The Infineon IPA60R360P7S is a specific model of MOSFET (Metal-Oxide-Semiconductor Field-Effect Transistor) manufactured by Infineon Technologies. MOSFETs are electronic devices used for amplifying or switching electronic signals in various applications, including power electronics. The IPA60R360P7S is part of Infineon’s Superjunction MOSFET portfolio, which is designed to provide high efficiency and ease of use. Superjunction MOSFETs are known for their improved performance in terms of conduction and switching losses compared to traditional MOSFETs. This makes them particularly suitable for high-power applications where efficiency is crucial. Here are some key features and benefits of the Infineon IPA60R360P7S MOSFET: Optimized Superjunction Design: The MOSFET is based on a Superjunction structure, which enhances its performance by reducing on-resistance and improving overall efficiency. High Efficiency: The Superjunction design helps reduce power losses during conduction and switching, resulting in higher efficiency in power conversion applications. This can lead to energy savings and improved system performance. Ease of Use: The IPA60R360P7S is designed to be user-friendly, making it easier for engineers and designers to integrate into their circuits. It can be easily controlled and managed within various power electronic systems. Robustness and Reliability: Infineon is known for its high-quality semiconductor products, and the IPA60R360P7S is no exception. It offers robustness and reliability, ensuring stable operation even in demanding environments. Applications: This MOSFET can be utilized in a wide range of applications, including switch-mode power supplies (SMPS), motor control, renewable energy systems, and other high-power electronic devices.

DIY!!!

So this is my own voltage increasing circuit, it requires pulse dc on the input and the other problem it has to be shorted into it, the low voltage. Other than that weakness, which would have been better if it wasnt true, you can get high voltage from half the caps of a voltage doubler, but if its not a pure short going into it, you will short away from the capacitors and they wont charge. thats the problem.

what is these parts? specifications?

Rigid-flex circuit board is made of rigid circuit board and flex circuits which combines the rigidness of PCB and flexibility of the flex circuits. It is widely used in various electronics applications range from consumer electronics, medicals, aerospace and wearables. For those wide usage, may some designers or engineers had ever faced such a common difficult that traces be cut or broken accidentally when using or assembling. Herein, we summarized general steps to cut traces on a Rigid flex circuit board repair. Gather the necessary tools To repair cut traces on a rigid-flex circuit board, you will need a soldering iron with a fine tip, soldering wire, a multimeter, a utility knife or scalpel, a masking tape (if the cut trace has a long length), and some thin copper foil. Identify the cut traces Use a magnifying glass or microscope to carefully inspect the flex circuit board and identify the cut/broken traces. Cut traces can be identified as gaps or breaks in the copper trace on the board that are visible upon inspection. Clean surrounding area Use a mild solvent, such as isopropyl alcohol, to clean the area around the cut traces to remove any debris, dirt, stains or residue. This will help ensure a clean and reliable repair. Trim and expose the copper on cut trace With a utility knife or scalpel to trim a bit of solder mask of the cut trace and expose the bare copper. Be careful not to remove copper as it may be broken. Take you time, this is a slowly process. Please be make sure to trim straight back the broken sides, this will help to next soldering process. Prepare the copper foil Cut a piece of thin copper foil that is slightly larger than the cut trace (the length is the key point that too long need to be cut secondary and too short will not enough to full cover the broken area, will result in open issue). The copper foil should have similar thickness and width as the original trace. Position the copper foil Carefully place the copper foil over the cut trace, aligning it as closely as possible with the original trace. Solder the copper foil Use the soldering iron with a fine tip to apply heat to the copper foil and the cut trace. First, pour a little flux on the repairing area, then apply a small amount of soldering wire to the heated area, allowing it to melt and flow, effectively soldering the copper foil to the cut trace. Be careful not to apply too much heat or pressure, as this can damage the flex circuit board. Test the repair Use a multimeter to test the continuity of the repaired trace to ensure that it is properly connected. If the repair is successful, the multimeter should show a low resistance reading, indicating that the trace is now conductive. Inspect and trim the repair Once the repair is complete, carefully inspect the area to ensure that the solder joint is clean and there are no shorts or bridges. If necessary, use a utility knife or scalpel to trim any excess copper foil or solder that may interfere with the normal operation of the circuit. Test the circuit After trimming and inspecting the repair, test the flex circuit board to ensure that it is functioning properly. Connect the board to the appropriate circuit or system and perform functional testing to verify that the repair has restored normal functionality. Please note that repairing rigid flex circuit boards requires advanced soldering skills and experience in working with delicate electronics. If you are not familiar with these techniques, it is recommended to seek assistance from a qualified technician or professional electronic repair service. Additionally, it is always best to find a reliable manufacturer who can produce the circuit board for you and provide repair service as well.

Photoresistors or photoresistors are components that are sensitive to light. It is basically a photocell that works on the principle of light guiding. This passive component is basically a resistor whose resistance value decreases as the light intensity decreases. It's not uncommon for an LDR or photoresistor to have a resistance value of a few megaohms in the dark, then drop to a few hundred ohms in bright light. Hardware Components: You will need the following parts to build this project. 1. Test Board 2. Cable 3. 12V DC 4. Resistor(33ohms) 5. Pot(50k) 6. Low-density lipoprotein 7. BD139npn 8. Bd140npn 9. 5mmLED Description This circuit will turn on a 1 W LED when there is no light on the LDR face. Circuit operation depends on the change of LDR (Light Dependent Resistor) resistance. After completing the circuit, when the LDR is exposed to a sufficient amount of light, its resistance decreases. This then causes the voltage at the base of the PNP transistor to also drop. When the LDR is exposed to a dark environment, its resistance increases, causing the voltage at the base of the PNP transistor to also increase. This voltage acts as a control signal for the BD139 NPN transistor, which triggers the output LED connected to a 33Ω 1W resistor. The control signal at the bottom of the PNP transistor can be tuned using a 50K potentiometer. Application Used as an emergency backup for security systems and industrial sites. It can be used as an emergency light in both home and office settings. It can be used in study rooms and workplaces to avoid sudden power outages. Please refer to the attached project circuit diagram

Rigid-flex circuit board is made of rigid circuit board and flex circuits which combines the rigidness of PCB and flexibility of the flex circuits. It is widely used in various electronics applications range from consumer electronics, medicals, aerospace and wearables. For those wide usage, may some designers or engineers had ever faced such a common difficult that traces be cut or broken accidentally when using or assembling. Herein, we summarized general steps to cut traces on a Rigid flex circuit board repair. Gather the necessary tools To repair cut traces on a rigid-flex circuit board, you will need a soldering iron with a fine tip, soldering wire, a multimeter, a utility knife or scalpel, a masking tape (if the cut trace has a long length), and some thin copper foil. Identify the cut traces Use a magnifying glass or microscope to carefully inspect the flex circuit board and identify the cut/broken traces. Cut traces can be identified as gaps or breaks in the copper trace on the board that are visible upon inspection. Clean surrounding area Use a mild solvent, such as isopropyl alcohol, to clean the area around the cut traces to remove any debris, dirt, stains or residue. This will help ensure a clean and reliable repair. Trim and expose the copper on cut trace With a utility knife or scalpel to trim a bit of solder mask of the cut trace and expose the bare copper. Be careful not to remove copper as it may be broken. Take you time, this is a slowly process. Please be make sure to trim straight back the broken sides, this will help to next soldering process. Prepare the copper foil Cut a piece of thin copper foil that is slightly larger than the cut trace (the length is the key point that too long need to be cut secondary and too short will not enough to full cover the broken area, will result in open issue). The copper foil should have similar thickness and width as the original trace. Position the copper foil Carefully place the copper foil over the cut trace, aligning it as closely as possible with the original trace. Solder the copper foil Use the soldering iron with a fine tip to apply heat to the copper foil and the cut trace. First, pour a little flux on the repairing area, then apply a small amount of soldering wire to the heated area, allowing it to melt and flow, effectively soldering the copper foil to the cut trace. Be careful not to apply too much heat or pressure, as this can damage the flex circuit board. Test the repair Use a multimeter to test the continuity of the repaired trace to ensure that it is properly connected. If the repair is successful, the multimeter should show a low resistance reading, indicating that the trace is now conductive. Inspect and trim the repair Once the repair is complete, carefully inspect the area to ensure that the solder joint is clean and there are no shorts or bridges. If necessary, use a utility knife or scalpel to trim any excess copper foil or solder that may interfere with the normal operation of the circuit. Test the circuit After trimming and inspecting the repair, test the flex circuit board to ensure that it is functioning properly. Connect the board to the appropriate circuit or system and perform functional testing to verify that the repair has restored normal functionality. Please note that repairing rigid flex circuit boards requires advanced soldering skills and experience in working with delicate electronics. If you are not familiar with these techniques, it is recommended to seek assistance from a qualified technician or professional electronic repair service. Additionally, it is always best to find a reliable manufacturer who can produce the circuit board for you and provide repair service as well. Please note that the use of images and links should comply with ethical and legal standards, and should provide value and a good user experience to the audience. It is also important to follow the rules and policies of the forum or website to avoid being banned or penalized.

The light comes on when my washer is turned on. But it goes off after a while. There is no response when pressing the power button. After waiting for a few minutes, I heard the washing machine beeping. At this time, the power-on indicator light is on again. After a minute or two it goes off again. After a while, it can be turned on again, and the process is repeated. Check the machine, suspect that there is a problem with the main control board in the lower part of the machine, and dig out the circuit board. Found that there is no 5V output. It is suspected to be a problem with the power block Tny276. I don't have a replacement of the same model on hand. I used tny177 to go up. It can also be turned on. Not extinguished. I don't know if it will last long. Do I need to buy an original model and replace it?

Once, one of our neighbors moved in and loaded up the furniture and stuff, which made him popular. Then there was a loud noise and a lot of people thought one of the pieces of furniture had fallen off, so no one checked. But out of curiosity, I went to the balcony and to my surprise the auto rickshaw had an accident and the driver was buried under the vehicle. After seeing it, I ran to the place with my father and moved the car. After 5 minutes, I was surprised that few people had gathered. So I came up with a project that lets people know their neighbors at the push of a button. Many people today are so busy with work that they can't check their surroundings, and people sometimes get discouraged or scared and don't know what to do next. With this in mind, I created a simple interface project to notify neighbors in case of an emergency. With the help of Arduino, GSM module, simple push button and other things, this project is possible. The mobile phone number and emergency alert message are predefined and stored in the Arduino. When a push button is pressed, an emergency alert message is sent to that number. People in emergency situations such as the elderly live alone Low blood sugar (hypoglycemia) chest pain / heart attack big haircut kick breathing, etc. 2. Theft/intruder incident 3. or unforeseen events other than the events mentioned above or natural disasters or environmental disasters.

I need to replace a PNP BD140 (BD140 datasheet) as I'm restoring a power supply, however the replacement component has its base directly connected to the V+ via the diode bridge. I'm not sure if this is doable. I assumed the collector or emitter would receive the V+. Powered by an 18-volt source, a 100-volt transistor My suggestion is to connect the transistor "upside down," with the base on top of the pict, biased by some DC from the massive resistor soldered to the two big locations, and the emitter and collector permitting the DC from the power supply to the power amp IC.